BEDROCK WINE CO.
SONOMA - CALIFORNIA - USA
Winery of the Year 2020 - Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“It is never easy to choose one winery that stands out above all others, especially with the regions I cover. This year I was especially impressed by Bedrock… One after the other, the wines were just stunning.”
Bedrock Wine Co. is first and foremost a mission-driven operation dedicated to preserving and rehabilitating old vineyards around California. Though oftentimes Zinfandel, these vineyards are also planted to Mataro (Mourvedre), Carignan, Petite Sirah, Alicante Bouschet, Grenache, Semillon, Gewurztraminer, Trousseau Gris and Riesling along with dozens of others. Established in 2007 by Morgan Twain-Peterson MW, the winery is dedicated to taking advantage of the diverse terroirs of California and their capacity to make an enormous range of styles, be it delicate and perfumed rosé, barrel-fermented whites, or violet and pepper-tinged Syrah.
Bedrock embraces uninoculated fermentations, native malolactic, the use of whole clusters in fermentation, minimal handling, rarely or never fine, avoid additions of things common in California like water and tartaric acid, and would rather use no oak than cheap oak. Broadly speaking, at the core of all Bedrock wines is a focus on ideal ripeness, freshness and aromatics. Being abundantly blessed with richness and fruit character in California, the challenge is to retain levity and poise in the wines.
Old Vine Zinfandel
This is half of the production of Bedrock, and it’s average vine age 90 years, with 10% from vineyards planted with ‘mixed blacks’. Many of the vineyards are field blended. Textured and broad with nice sweet berry fruits. Ripe but with definition. Has a lovely seductive, lush quality, but there are also layers here, and it finishes fresh.
Evangelho Vineyard Heritage
130 year old own-rooted vines on beach sand. A blend of Zinfandel, Mourvèdre, Carignan, Alicante and Palomino. A windblown site. Raised in foudre. Lovely weight here with some tannin, nice elegance and a bit of grip under the sweet cherry and berry fruits. Very bright and expressive with lovely structure.
The Bedrock Heritage
Vineyard planted in 1888 with 27 different varieties, although Zinfandel, Carignan and Mourvèdre dominate. All co-fermented except for a small block of Carignan, with 18-20% new oak and some large-format oak. Sweetly fruited and quite refined with nice spicy structure and pure red berries, as well as some bite on the finish. Substantial and very fine.