"2022 is a completely unexpected classic vintage with, at the top, some superb wines of timeless elegance."
Jean Fisch and David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines, Issue No. 67
So much praise has been heaped upon the young Julian Haart in recent vintages that it's hard to decide which sound-bites to pick out. In 2017, along with a slew of 100 point reviews for his three Auslese, Julian was awarded the highest rated Kabinett of the vintage by John Gilman.
This was repeated in 2018 when Jean Fisch and David Rayer of Mosel Fine Wines stated that Julian's Ohligsberg Alte Reben "is one of the finest Kabinett we have ever tasted" and also named his Goldtröpfchen Spatlese as the single best Spatlese of the vintage. With the 2019 releases, his Ohligsberg Kabinett Alte Reben received the highest score for any Kabinett from the vintage from James Suckling.
In 2020, Julian’s Ohligsberg Kabinett Alte Reben was awarded the first ever 100 point score for a Kabinett from any publication that we are aware of, and then with the 2021 vintage a 100 point score was bestowed for a second time upon the same wine.
Just a few weeks ago, the newly released 2022 vintage was once again awarded a perfect 100 point score - now three vintages in a row. These consistently thrilling wines are quite remarkable when you consider the estate was only established in 2010!
Based in Piesport, in the heartland of the Mosel Valley, Julian Haart is the young star of German winemaking. His wine education could scarcely have been more illustrious, working with Klaus Peter Keller for three years and Egon Muller for a year, as well as stints with Heymann-Löwenstein and Emrich-Schönleber.
On his return to Piesport, he took over a small half-hectare plot in the Wintricher Ohligsberg planted with 50-year-old vines, followed by a parcel planted in 1910 in the Piesporter Goldtröpfchen. The estate has grown to a little more than four hectares and this is, roughly, where Julian wants it to stay.
Part of the joy of winemaking, for Julian, is doing everything himself, or with his wife Nadine, or with some friends. This is vineyard work, and winemaking, at the most human scale. Nearly everything must be done by hand – most of the vineyards are steep as hell and most of them are terraced. Even walking through them is a bit hazardous.
His goal is to make superlative dry wines, but they are brilliant and elegant across the entire range. He is striving for vineyard expression rather than just fruit; fermentation is allowed to start naturally, and the cellar temperature is kept at a steady 20ºC. Terroir shines through!
We are delighted to present Julian Haart's wines to the Australian market each year, and could not be happier to offer the latest 2022 vintage release now. Don't be fooled by the humble naming of the 'Haart', Mosel, Piesporter and 'Old Vine Kabinett' Rieslings - all fruit actually comes from parcels in Piesport's Goldtropfchen Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) vineyard.
For the top wines with vineyard designation on the label, fruit has come from Julian's own holdings of ancient (110+ year old) Goldtropfchen and Ohligsberg vines.
Featured Wines
Riesling Ohligsberg Kabinett Alte Reben
2022
"Welcome to floral heaven with very subtle flinty smoky notes that gently wrap their tendrils around you. So light and delicate, like a white cloud floating high in the sky, but this also has staggering concentration and racy energy that leaves you breathless. Unbelievable finish for which it is hard to find adequate words. Very limited production. Drinkable now, but best from 2025."
100 Points, James Suckling
Riesling Ohligsberg Kabinett Alte Reben
2021
"This wine is as hard and as brilliant as a diamond, the concentration as high as nature is capable of, in spite of the lightness of body, an absurd combination but this absurdity is so delightful. And all of this climbs inexorably to some kind of impossibly sensual nemesis at the finish. Very limited production. Drink or hold."
100 Points, James Suckling
Riesling Ohligsberg Kabinett Alte Reben
2020
"Hang on to your hat and switch on your brain, because it's really hard to fully grasp this incredibly wild and totally original Mosel riesling. Somehow – I can't begin to explain it ! –this seems to defy gravity by showing radical and dark minerality, yet there’s a weightless feel on the extremely straight and precise palate. Drink or hold."
100 Points, James Suckling