Burgundy enthusiasts are having to work increasingly hard to seek out and secure the region's great wines. The acceleration of demand for fine Burgundy shows no sign of slowing, while at the same time crop sizes are reducing and prices are spiralling frustratingly out of control.
Within this landscape, we are delighted to present that most elusive of finds: an exceptional domaine, with single-minded focus on quality, almost unknown outside of France. We recently encountered two such properties, and are pleased to release the first of these today: Les Héritiers Saint-Genys.
Burgundy is renowned for being a jigsaw of small plots, fitting side by side across the rolling côtes and crus, each with many different owners - the result of Napoleonic inheritance laws that divide estates equally between heirs. While some heirs want to make wine, others prefer to live their lives elsewhere, meaning that their plots go untended.
Enter Patrice du Jeu, a Parisian restaurateur with the determination and energy to seek out and revive such plots. With his infectious enthusiasm inspiring other members of his family and some of his friends along for the ride, he managed to buy several of these neglected parcels of vines in truly excellent terroirs of the Côte de Beaune, including Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and a walled monopole of 70 year old vines in Mercurey called Clos Marcilly - the only monopole in Mercurey, in fact. The last addition to the estate's holdings being an exceptional parcel in Morgon, Beaujolais, sitting next to La Côte de Py.
With the winery established in Chassagne-Montrachet in 2011, vines across this 13-hectare estate are grown sustainably and without the use of herbicides. Harvest is done by hand, directly into small drilled boxes, avoiding any maceration of grapes before winemaking and limiting the amount of handling and crushing.
The resulting wines are beautifully pure, technically highly competent, and place Les Héritiers St-Genys among the most exciting new domaines of Burgundy today.
Featured Wines
Morgon En Ruyère
2020
"Deep and mysterious, with aromas right across the dark side of the spectrum, from violets to forest berries via savoury notes, this remarkable Morgon has the concentration, power and finesse of a top Grand Cru from the Cote de Nuits! An almost perfect marriage of fine tannins and richness right through the staggering finish. Enormous ageing potential."
98 points James Suckling
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jean
2020
"Wonderful bouquet of bergamot and apricot, with delicate notes of basil and vanilla. Beautifully ripe, but so graceful as it moves over the palate like a prima ballerina. The chalky minerality builds steadily, a note of ripe mandarin orange opening up, before a wild-herb flavour comes through right at the end. Drink or hold."
97 points James Suckling
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts
2020
"What a breathtaking nose of apricot, orange blossom and bergamot this Puligny-Montrachet has! Super silky on the rich palate, which is neither creamy, chalky nor acidic, but has exactly the right amount of all of these elements, beautifully woven together to create an extremely sensual whole. From grapes that were sustainably grown, with no use of herbicides. Drink or hold."
97 points James Suckling
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