LES HÉRITIERS SAINT-GENYS
BURGUNDY - FRANCE
“Les Héritiers Saint-Genys, based in Chassagne-Montrachet but with vineyards scattered in locations as widely separated as Puligny-Montrachet, Santenay, Mercurey and Morgon in Beaujolais. They make stunningly complex and individual wines from all these locations.”
- Stuart Pigott
Burgundy is renowned for being a jigsaw of small plots, fitting side by side across the rolling côtes and crus, each with many different owners - the result of Napoleonic inheritance laws that divide estates equally between heirs. While some heirs want to make wine, others prefer to live their lives elsewhere, meaning that their plots go untended.
Enter Patrice du Jeu, a Parisian restaurateur with the determination and energy to seek out and revive such plots. With his infectious enthusiasm inspiring other members of his family and some of his friends along for the ride, he managed to buy several of these neglected parcels of vines in truly excellent terroirs of the Côte de Beaune, including Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and a walled monopole of 70 year old vines in Mercurey called Clos Marcilly - the only monopoly in Mercurey, in fact.
With the winery established in Chassagne-Montrachet in 2011, vines across this 13-hectare estate are grown sustainably and without the use of herbicides. Harvest is done by hand, directly into small drilled boxes, avoiding any maceration of grapes before winemaking and limiting the amount of handling and crushing. The resulting wines are beautifully pure, technically highly competent, and place Les Héritiers St-Genys among the most exciting new domaines of Burgundy today.
2020 Morgon En Ruyère
98 pts, James Suckling - “Deep and mysterious, with aromas right across the dark side of the spectrum, from violets to forest berries via savoury notes, this remarkable Morgon has the concentration, power and finesse of a top Grand Cru from the Cote de Nuits! An almost perfect marriage of fine tannins and richness right through the staggering finish. Enormous ageing potential. Sustainable. Drink or hold.”
2020 Mercurey 1er Cru Clos Marcilly ‘Cuveé Clovis’
96 pts, James Suckling - “When everything is right, and here it is, then Mercury can smell and taste like Grand Cru red Burgundy from further north. Enormous concentration and very fine tannins interlocked with dark minerality, the finish very energetic with so much drive. From vines planted in 1947 and 1956, sustainably grown with no use of herbicides. Drinkable now, but best from 2024.”
2020 Mercurey 1er Cru Clos Marcilly ‘Cuveé Hermine’
96 pts, James Suckling - “This has the expansiveness and great depth that we expect from Grand Cru wines from the Cote d'Or! Stunning concentration and structure, but not a jot too rich or heavy. So much chalky minerality at the very long, crescendo finish. Just a hint of tannin there makes me think this needs a bit more time in bottle. From grapes that were sustainably grown, with no use of herbicides. Drinkable now, but best from 2024.”
2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jean
97 pts, James Suckling - “Wonderful bouquet of bergamot and apricot, with delicate notes of basil and vanilla. Beautifully ripe, but so graceful as it moves over the palate like a prima ballerina. The chalky minerality builds steadily, a note of ripe mandarin orange opening up, before a wild-herb flavour comes through right at the end. Drink or hold.”
2020 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts
97 pts, James Suckling - “What a breathtaking nose of apricot, orange blossom and bergamot this Puligny-Montrachet has! Super silky on the rich palate, which is neither creamy, chalky nor acidic, but has exactly the right amount of all of these elements, beautifully woven together to create an extremely sensual whole. From grapes that were sustainably grown, with no use of herbicides. Drink or hold.”